WHY LEONOR GREYL NEVER USES SILICONES IN HER PRODUCTS
Silicones are “plastics” that feature in many cosmetic compositions. Manufacturers appreciate these cheap ingredients for their chemical stability, but also and especially because they give products a creamy texture while making hair soft and shiny.
R&D Director and member of the Greyl family David Brooks explains why he and his predecessor Jean-Marie Greyl have never used silicones in Leonor Greyl products.
What's wrong with silicones?
Silicones create a “conditioning” effect by forming a film around individual hairs to make them artificially soft and shiny without providing any real treatment. This film then acts as a screen against any hydrating, nourishing and repairing ingredients, and can even stop hair dyes from penetrating the core hair fiber, jeopardizing the longevity of your color. The occlusive effect of silicones also tends to prevent the scalp from “breathing”, meaning it quickly becomes greasy while hair itself becomes lifeless.
This is why silicones have been the subject of so much debate: They hide damage until they're washed out and the dry hair underneath is revealed.
How can we identify silicones in products?
The names of silicones usually end in “-cone” or “-siloxane”. Dimethicone, trimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone and cyclopentasiloxane are just some examples.
Are there good and bad silicones?
All silicones form a film around hair and an unwelcome barrier against treatments and dyes, whether they are heavily textured, non-volatile silicones that weigh hair down or lighter, more volatile silicones that are easier to remove.
How can we rid hair of silicones before starting a deep treatment?
The time required to remove a silicone film depends on your hair type and the products you've used. Eliminating them entirely will usually require several weeks of repeated silicone-free treatment.
Silicone is liposoluble, which means it dissolves in lipids (or fats). Leonor Greyl thus recommends that prior to washing your hair, you apply oil from root to tip and leave it in for at least five minutes, or overnight if you prefer.