Silicones are “plastic like” and are featured in many
cosmetic compositions.
Manufacturers appreciate these cheap ingredients
for their chemical stability,
but especially because they give products a
creamy texture and make hair soft and shiny.
R&D Director David Brooks explains why he and
his predecessor Jean-Marie Greyl always kept silicones
away from Leonor Greyl’s formulas.

What’s wrong with silicones?

Silicones create a conditioning effect by forming a film around the hair to make it
artificially soft and shiny without providing any real treatment.
This film then acts as a screen against any hydrating and repairing ingredients
and can even stop hair dyes from penetrating the hair fiber, jeopardizing the longevity
of your color.
The occlusive effect of silicones also tends to prevent the scalp from “breathing”,
meaning it quickly becomes oily while hair becomes lifeless.
This is why silicones have been the subject of so much debate: they hide damage
until they are washed out and the dry hair underneath is revealed.

How can we identify silicones in products?

The names of silicones usually end in “-cone” or “-siloxane”.
Dimethicone, trimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone and cyclopentasiloxane
are some examples.

Are there good and bad silicones?

All silicones form a film around hair and an unwelcome barrier against treatments and colors,
whether they are heavily textured, non-volatile silicones that weigh hair down or lighter,
more volatile silicones that are easier to remove.

How to remove silicones from your hair before starting a deep treatment?

The time required to remove silicone depends on your hair type and the products used before.
Eliminating them entirely will usually require several weeks.

Silicone is liposoluble, which means it dissolves in lipids (or fats).
Leonor Greyl therefore recommends that prior to washing your hair, you apply oil
on your length and ends and leave it on for at least five minutes, or overnight if you prefer.

Pro tip : use the washing treatment Huile Germe de Blé to remove silicones from your hair.

Related advice:
Why avoid dry shampoo?
The ten commandments of the hair by Caroline Greyl